Swiss Rock Guides

EIGER, MATTERHORN with a preparation climb!

Dew to the hut being closed and going over a rebuilt, I do not guide the

Matterhorn in 2014 season.

(Only permitted with a strong mountaineering resume.)

   
Photo by Freddy. The Matterhorn

I offer only the a 6-day Matterhorn climb with the Eiger and Gspaltenhorn as preparation climb. I would like to get to know you, to asses your skills and to acclimatize properly for such a climb. We start low and work our way higher as every peak and hut is slightly higher and is a perfect acclimation for you. The perfect way to see some of the major peaks in the Alps while having a safe and fun experiences.

It is only possible to book this tour without a preparation climb if you have a strong recommendation from a guide, or you have a very strong climbing resume. This tour is very strenuous and difficult and is only for expert mountaineers with years of experience.

 

If you want to climb the Matterhorn in 1 day I advise you to the hire a local guides in Zermatt, I do not guide the Matterhorn in 1 day.

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed. Especially because the Matterhorn is a very busy mountain, we use the short rope technique for efficiency, speed and safety.

THE EIGER 3970 m.


 

The Eiger is my favorite guiding mountain. It has retained its mystique from the early 1930s of being the last big problem in the Alps. When you climb the ridge you look down to your left and see majestic glaciers and on the right you see the green meadows of Grindelwald. On the descent we get to look into the famous Eiger North Face.

The Eiger is similar to the Matterhorn. It is a rock climb, but it has more exposure and is less commonly traveled.

The climb is rated D with sections of Class V rock or S (to compare difficulty ratings please see the menu bar "Choosing a Climb")

We will need crampons and ice axes. The climb starts from the Eismeer train station at 3,159 meters on a glacier approach. The trail is very exposed to rock and icefall. The highest objective danger of the entire climb is here traversing under the Eigerjocher to the Mittellegi Hut at 3,355 meters. Once past the Eigerjocher, the climb is up class V rock ledges to easy traversing to the hut. From there, the climb proceeds along a knife edge ridge with rock climbing up to V with fixed ropes to hang on to if needed. Fixed ropes are located on the more difficult sections so we can belay and pull up on them. The summit ridge will have snow and ice towards the summit.

We will down climb to the train station, Eigergletscher, (West face) PD+ or traverse to the Jungfraujoch via Eigerjocher D with rock up to V depending on the current conditions. Because of the nature of the climb, once we have started, we do not have the option of turning around, and we are therefore committed to climbing over the top.

The climb takes about 4-5 hrs. to climb to the top and the same amount of time to down climb.

Conditions can change rapidly and there is always the possibility of rock fall and ice on the rock as we climb.

The downhill climbing will be climbing and not rappelling, so you have to be able to down climb grade 3-4.

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed.

The Matterhorn

The Matterhorn is a very beautiful climb, which explains its popularity. As local guide, I know when and how to get around the crowds in the morning. The Matterhorn tends to be underestimated. It has to be taken seriously and requires good preparation for a safe, successful and fun climb.

The Matterhorn is mainly a rock climb, but it does have tricky sections, in particular on the top section called "The Roof" where we need crampons and ice axes.

The rating is AD mostly rock up to III-, US 5.2-5.4 and ice to 50 degrees.

(to compare difficulty ratings please see the menu bar "Choosing a Climb")

The climb takes about 4-5 hrs. up and the same amount of time to down-climb.

The hike to the Hoernli Hut takes about 2 hours, from where the climb starts in the morning. The route is mostly rock, starting 5 min. out of the hut. It entails scrambling and climbing interspersed with some fixed ropes on difficult sections to the Solvey Hut. Once we get on the ridge, we will climb on fixed ropes and mixed terrain on the north facing side to the shoulder up to the summit. The descent follows the same route down.

We will down-climb the mountain and not rappel. Therefore, you must be able to down-climb grade 3-4.(5.2-5.4)

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed. Especially because the Matterhorn is a very busy mountain, we use the short rope technique for efficiency, speed and safety.

 

Itinerary for 6- Day with a preparation climb

Day 1: Meet in Interlaken at 12:00 noon and take the train and local bus to Griesalp 1,408 m in the Kiental and hike to the Gspaltenhorn hut 2,455 m. (about 3 hour hike from Griesalp.) Option two is meet in Interlaken and take the train/bus to Meiringen/Rosenlaui. Hike 3 hours to the Engelhorn hut an stay overnight.

Day 2: Climb the Gspaltenhorn 3,436 m about 3-4 hours up and 3 hour back to the hut and return to Griesalp 1,408 m about 2,20 hours of downhill hiking where we take the bus/train back to Interlaken. Another option is to climb the Simelistock and return to Interlaken. You will spend the night in Interlaken in a hotel. I want stay with you in the Hotel as I am local so I will go home and meet you the next day.

Day 3: We will meet around 12:00 noon and take the Jungfraujoch train to the station Eismeer 3,0490 m to climb to the Mittellegi hut 3,355 m over the challi glacier. The climb to the hut is about 2-3 hours.

Day 4: Climb the Eiger 3,970 m over the Mittellegi Ridge to the peak. We will either down climb the Eigerjocher to the Monchsjoch hut/Jungfraujoch. Or down the West face of the Eiger to the Eigergletscher station 2,320 m depending on conditions and your skills. We will take the train down to Grindelwald and return to Interlaken by train. (8-10 hour climb.) You will spend the night in Interlaken in a hotel. I want stay with you  in the Hotel as I am local so I will go home and meet you the next day.

Day 5: Meet in the morning around 09:00 am and transfer to Zermatt by train. Hike to the Matterhorn tram and ride up to Schwarzsee station 2,583 m and hike to the Hoernli hut. 3,5 hour train ride and 2 hour hike to the hut.

 Day 6: Climb the Matterhorn 8-10 hour climbing hut to hut and a 1,5 hour hike to the tram station at Schwarzsee to return to Zermatt. I will leave you to take the train to go back to Beatenberg.

 

6- day climb with acclimatization and preparation climb

Cost: CHF  5.200.00 (1 person) 

Included in the cost are: 6 days guide fee, hut fees, 2 Hotel night in Interlaken at the Hardermandli (2 Star Hotel), 5 breakfast and 3 dinner, guide expenses

Not included in the price are: rental equipment, personal equipment, souvenirs, drinks, tram/train rides, dinner in Interlaken and lunches.

A climber must understand, in the event of the risk of rock fall, fatigue or lack of skills, we will have a turn around point at the Solvey hut. The set time is 2hrs. If we do not meet the time (climbing time from the Hoernli hut to the Solvey hut), I will have to turn around, and the full peak fee still applies!

Previous mountaineering experience required!

Below are some pictures of a good day's ascent. It is as busy as a New York subway at rush hour. (all pictures by Thomas Ulrich)

 

 

 

Photo Gallery


Photo by Freddy. The Hoernli hut
 



Photo by Freddy: the Eiger Mittellegi ridge


 


Photo by Mark Hogland: coffee at the hut


Photo by Freddy. The bottom section


Photo by Freddy. The ice loch on the bottom of the climb


Photo by Freddy. The second tower


Photo by Freddy. On the fixed line up at the shoulder


Photo by Mark Hogland: arriving at the peak.


Photo by Mark Hogland: The peak picture.


Photo by Freddy. The Swiss summit

Click below for information on equipment and training plan for climbing in the Alps

Alps Equipment List


Photo by Freddy, The Eiger on the big tower