THE MATTERHORN 4’478 m.

Photo by Freddy. The Matterhorn

The Matterhorn is a very beautiful climb, which explains its popularity. As local guide, I know when and how to get around the crowds in the morning. The Matterhorn tends to be underestimated. It has to be taken seriously and requires good preparation for a safe, successful and fun climb.

The Matterhorn is mainly a rock climb, but it does have tricky sections, in particular on the top section called "The Roof" where we need crampons and ice axes.

The rating is AD – mostly rock up to III-, US 5.2-5.4 and ice to 50 degrees.

The climb takes about 4-5 hrs. up and the same amount of time to down-climb.

The hike to the Hoernli Hut takes about 2 hours, from where the climb starts in the morning. The route is mostly rock, starting 5 min. out of the hut. It entails scrambling and climbing interspersed with some fixed ropes on difficult sections to the Solvey Hut. Once we get on the ridge, we will climb on fixed ropes and mixed terrain on the north facing side to the shoulder up to the summit. The descent follows the same route down.

We will down-climb the mountain and not rappel. Therefore, you must be able to down-climb grade 3-4.(5.2-5.4)

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed. Especially because the Matterhorn is a very busy mountain, we use the short rope technique for efficiency, speed and safety.

The 4-day preparation, acclimation option is best suited for well-acclimatized climbers. We guide with a 1:1 ratio of guides to clients for the Matterhorn.

The Matterhorn can also be booked as a 1-day climb if the climber has a very strong mountaineering resume and/or a recommendation by a guide. However, I do recommend doing a preparation climb for a greater probability of success!

A climber must understand, in the event of the risk of rock fall, fatigue or lack of skills, we will have a turn around point at the Solvey hut. The set time is 2hrs. If we do not meet the time (climbing time from the Hoernli hut to the Solvey hut), I will have to turn around, and the full peak fee still applies!

Photo by Freddy. The summit ridge of the Wetterhorn with the Eiger in the background

 

4-Day Ascent

Day 1:

Meet in Interlaken or Grindelwald at noon, equipment check, orientation.

Hike to the Glecksteinhut or Gspaltenhorn hut, where we stay overnight.

Day 2:

Climb the Wetterhorn or Gspaltenhorn depending on your skill level, return to the hut, descend to Grindelwald and stay in Grindelwald or Interlaken.

Day 3:

Transfer to Zermatt by train in the morning. Hike to the Hoernli hut.

Day 4:

Climb the Matterhorn.

July- August- September

4-day climb

Cost: CHF 3.420.00 (1 person)

Includes: hut fees, 3 breakfasts, 2 dinners, 4 day climb and guides expenses.

1-day climb

Cost: CHF 1.746.00 (1 person)

Includes: hut fee, 1 breakfasts, 1 dinners, 1 day climb and guides expenses.

Previous mountaineering experience required!

Below are some pictures of a good day's ascent. It is as busy as a New York subway at rush hour. (all pictures by Thomas Ulrich)

 

 

 

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Click below for information on equipment and training plan for climbing in the Alps

Alps Equipment List

Photo by Freddy, The Matterhorn freshly painted