THE MATTERHORN 4’478 m.

Photo by Freddy. The Matterhorn |
The Matterhorn is a very beautiful climb, which explains its popularity.
As local guide, I know when and how to get around the crowds in
the morning. The Matterhorn tends to be underestimated. It has to
be taken seriously and requires good preparation for a safe, successful
and fun climb.
The Matterhorn is mainly a rock climb, but it does
have tricky sections, in particular on the top section called "The Roof" where
we need crampons and ice axes.
The rating is AD – mostly rock up to III-, US
5.2-5.4 and
ice to 50 degrees.
The climb takes about 4-5 hrs. up and the same amount of time to
down-climb.
The hike to the Hoernli Hut takes about 2 hours, from where the
climb starts in the morning. The route is mostly rock, starting 5
min. out of the hut. It entails scrambling and climbing interspersed
with some fixed ropes on difficult sections to the Solvey Hut. Once
we get on the ridge, we will climb on fixed ropes and mixed terrain
on the north facing side to the shoulder up to the summit. The descent
follows the same route down.
The climb is not to be underestimated by its rating.
It must be taken seriously and requires rigorous training and
preparation. The sheer number of people on the climb at any one time
(the Matterhorn commonly has up to 150 climbers on it during peak
times) affects the level of some dangers including rock fall.
Conditions can change rapidly and may include rock fall, ice on
rock, thunderstorms and lightening.
The climb may cause physical fatigue, which increases risk factors
such as poor footing and loss of technical skills.
We will down-climb the mountain and not rappel. Therefore, you must
be able to down-climb grade 3-4.(5.2-5.4)
We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed. Especially
because the Matterhorn is a very busy mountain, we use the short
rope technique for efficiency, speed and safety.
The 5-day preparation, acclimation option is best suited for well-acclimatized
climbers. We guide with a 1:1 ratio of guides to clients for
the Matterhorn.
The Wetterhorn is the symbolic mountain of Grindelwald
and our perfect mountain to qualify for the Matterhorn.
A very esthetic rock ridge up to a snowy ridge. We hike to the Gleckstein
hut 2317 m. above the famous village of Grindelwald over the Grindelwald
glacier. Early in the morning we climb the Willis Ridge to the top,
5-6 hr one way. We will stay one more day in the hut and hike out
the next day.
The climb is rated PD or ZS-, 5.2-5.4 with a section of 45 degrees.
Photo by Freddy. The summit ridge of the Wetterhorn with the Eiger
in the background |
5-Day
Ascent
Day 1:
Meet in Interlaken or Grindelwald,
equipment check, orientation.
Hike to the Glecksteinhut were we stay overnight.
Day 2:
Climb the Wetterhorn and return to the hut were stay
for the night or descend to Grindelwald and stay in Grindelwald or
Interlaken.
Day 3:
Hike to Grindelwald and transfer to Zermatt. Hike to the Hoernli hut.
Day 4:
Climb the Matterhorn.
Day 5:
Return to Zermatt or another changes to summit if
the weather did not corporated.
July- August- September
5-day
climb
Cost: CHF 3.375.00 (1 person)
Includes: hut fees, 4 breakfasts, 3 dinners, 5 day climb
and guides expenses.
Previous mountaineering experience required!
Below are some pictures of a good day's ascent. It
is as busy as a New York subway at rush hour. (all pictures by Thomas
Ulrich)


Photo Gallery
Click below for information on equipment and training plan for climbing
in the Alps
Alps Equipment List

Photo by Freddy, The Matterhorn freshly painted |