Swiss Rock Guides

THE MATTERHORN 4’478 m.

Photo by Freddy. The Matterhorn

The Matterhorn is a very beautiful climb, which explains its popularity. As local guide, I know when and how to get around the crowds in the morning. The Matterhorn tends to be underestimated. It has to be taken seriously and requires good preparation for a safe, successful and fun climb.

The Matterhorn is mainly a rock climb, but it does have tricky sections, in particular on the top section called "The Roof" where we need crampons and ice axes.

The rating is AD – mostly rock up to III-, US 5.2-5.4 and ice to 50 degrees.

The climb takes about 4-5 hrs. up and the same amount of time to down-climb.

The hike to the Hoernli Hut takes about 2 hours, from where the climb starts in the morning. The route is mostly rock, starting 5 min. out of the hut. It entails scrambling and climbing interspersed with some fixed ropes on difficult sections to the Solvey Hut. Once we get on the ridge, we will climb on fixed ropes and mixed terrain on the north facing side to the shoulder up to the summit. The descent follows the same route down.

The climb is not to be underestimated by its rating. It must be taken seriously and requires rigorous training and preparation. The sheer number of people on the climb at any one time (the Matterhorn commonly has up to 150 climbers on it during peak times) affects the level of some dangers including rock fall.

Conditions can change rapidly and may include rock fall, ice on rock, thunderstorms and lightening.

The climb may cause physical fatigue, which increases risk factors such as poor footing and loss of technical skills.

We will down-climb the mountain and not rappel. Therefore, you must be able to down-climb grade 3-4.(5.2-5.4)

We traditionally short rope our clients for safety and speed. Especially because the Matterhorn is a very busy mountain, we use the short rope technique for efficiency, speed and safety.

The 5-day preparation, acclimation option is best suited for well-acclimatized climbers. We guide with a 1:1 ratio of guides to clients for the Matterhorn.

The Wetterhorn is the symbolic mountain of Grindelwald and our perfect mountain to qualify for the Matterhorn.

A very esthetic rock ridge up to a snowy ridge. We hike to the Gleckstein hut 2317 m. above the famous village of Grindelwald over the Grindelwald glacier. Early in the morning we climb the Willis Ridge to the top, 5-6 hr one way. We will stay one more day in the hut and hike out the next day.

The climb is rated PD or ZS-, 5.2-5.4 with a section of 45 degrees.